LMLT NewsLetter


The Lacis Museum Newsletter October 4, 2012 Dear Friends of LMLT,
This Week
The opening of the Fall exhibit TREASURES is now here. All are invited to the pre-opening party tomorrow evening, September 21, from 5:30 - 8:30. Thanks to the assistance of volunteers Jill Cornwell and Bill Jones, the tremendous amount of time necessary in preparing this exhibit was made plausible. All pieces were pre-mounted eliminating all handling of lace in the exhibit area. Intimate view of the pieces, required for understanding, will be assisted by microscopic photos, magnifiers and explanations of the magic inherent in these pieces. SECOND FLOOR GALLERY The response to the new Gallery has been overwhelming, the challenge of the stair quickly forgotten. with all visitors expressing their gratitude. The rewards from the tours are shared by the visitors and myself, always learning more from the experience Rather than a dated exhibit, displayed items will be constantly changing, guided by the support received from Friends for this endeavor. In addition to the LMLT Collection, rotating exhibits of textile collectors as well as contemporary textile artists and crafts persons could have exposure. All comments, encouragement and support are welcomed. I can be contacted at jules@LacisMuseum.org The LMLT Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/LacisMuseum) is gathering friends, thanks to Erin and we ask our friends to keep us informed of events you would like to share. Please pass on any comments to facebook@LacisMuseum.org, The Newsletter will now be featured on our Facebook.
Events
THE ASUIT CLOTH On going from March 2012 Many have now made the effort to visit the new gallery...all enchanted, surprised and delighted with the Exhibit. Without any modesty, I relate comments written in our guest book from visitors: This was Rock Star Tour. Sinda This is the best exhibit ever seen & the tour was amazing. Sierra So wonderful - fabulous tour, the Asuit is amazing, Lisa This visit to Lacis has been a treat of a lifetime, Susan What a wonderful resource for the community. Zoe Thank you so much for the interesting Asuit tour and for having this beautiful museum & store here. Millie Thank you for an amazing charming memorable experience. So generous a spirit, great collection. A pleasure. Mary Joe What an amazing opportunity to see this exquisite work. Thank you - I feel so fortunate and inspired. Georgia Thank you for a wonderful tour! A first for me seeing these lovely shawls. Marcia Thank you for your work in preserving beauty. Sylvia Discovering Asuit cloths can be a mesmerizing experience. There is a magic in these shawls as if some secret code is embedded in the patterns, which at first seem regular and repetitive and then to notice all the subtle variations and the wonder whether this was intentional, a way to identify the maker, or simply a reflection of the skill or lack of skill, of the maker. The patterns only seem to repeat and perhaps the theory that these were created by blind workers has a basis. No documentation has been found and I welcome any input from our readers and visitors. There is little known as to the origins of this magical shimmering cloth, and no common agreement as to its spelling (Assiut, Asute, Azute), but it is commonly agreed to originate in the Egyptian town of Asyut where it is also referred to as" Tulle be Telli, the Egyptian name for "net of metal." The designs are made by folding thin metal strips into select openings on a Levers machine made net or tulle. Commonly referred to as "bobbinett" it has the structure of the "Fond Simple" bobbin lace ground, a quickly made ground found in the popular laces of Chantilly, Lille and Bucks. It has great lateral stretch which is the characteristics that has related it to the early Egyptian twisted warp mesh of sprang. This stretch quality together with the weight of the metal, gives the fabric a remarkable draping quality. The embroidery technique, however, using the same flat metal strips, can be found in early Coptic embroidery on gauze fabrics which would seem to be the basis for the net embroidery. There is no evidence of it dating earlier than the late 19th c. its production developing around the burgeoning Tourist industry where these became distinctive “Egyptian” items to bring back home. The 1893 Chicago World’s Fair did much to popularize the new Egyptian phenomena following the earlier Chinoise period which was so popular in the West. The “Belly dance” also introduced at this fair made use of this exotic fabric which would mesmerize audiences. It was in the early 20s however, that, with the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb, that anything Egyptian was in vogue. Hollywood capitalized on this interest with Cecil B. DeMille’s Cleopatra and Samson and Delilah, the Asuit cloth having a prominent part of costuming. They became popular piano shawls where the design would show strongly over the black polished woods and many would be cut and transformed into stylish jackets and aprons. A SLIDE SHOW of many of the pieces in the exhibit is available on the LMLT web site in a new interactive format, allowing scanning and selection of any image in addition to the normal sequencing. The Asuit Cloth: Slide Show FALL TEXTILE EXHIBIT TREASURES OF LMLT September 22 thru February 2, 2013 Opening Party: Friday Evening, September 21st 5:30 - 8:30 PM A reflection of the richness, versatility and human spirit as expressed through the work of our hands across all cultures and time. Some treasures are obvious, those that were created in a world inconceivable to us today. Work beyond the limits of any hand skill we can conceive of...some are less obvious, experiments with fibers to simply test our skills and create beauty that gives us joy...some that express a connection to other worlds of beasts and gods that we honor...some simply a test of endurance...and some a dedication of love. Selected pieces will be displayed alongside magnified images to see what is beyond normal vision and to help understand the extraordinary aspects of our hand work. Other treasures will include extraordinary handwork in fans, whalebone, and the personal treasures of early photo albums and the sampler books which recorded our skills. A SLIDE SHOW of many of the pieces in the exhibit is available on the LMLT web site in a new interactive format, allowing scanning and selection of any image in addition to the normal sequencing. TREASURES: Slide Show SECOND FLOOR GALLERY Spring 2014 With the expressed enthusiasm and support of SAGA Members, organized by Catherine Ljungquist of the local SAGA chapter Cable Car Cablers, and the endorsement of the National SAGA organization, via its President Liz Perch, this exhibit, in conjunction with a seminar program, is now scheduled for 2014. The exhibit is supported by the Museum's historic pieces and the recent donation of Sarah Douglas, which includes her collection of machines, images and notebooks covering this universal fabric manipulation technique. A preview of articles from the LM LT collection and some of Sarah Douglas's smocking machines can now be seen in our new display case on the Second Floor.
Classes

(Note: Class schedules subject to change. Confirm dates prior to registering). Classes are held on the second floor, above the Museum Shop at 2980 Adeline St. in a comfortable well lit air conditioned space. Access is by a wide stair, with a landing. It is not wheel-chair accessible, should this be a consideration. Note: Those coming from out-of-town might want to consider staying at the “Rose Garden Inn” where prior students have stayed. Offering charm, friendliness and a great gratis buffet breakfast, the Inn is a short 15 minute walk to LMLT which will take you through the Berkeley Bowl, world renown marketplace. If staying be sure to mention that you are a student at LMLT. For further information contact www.rosegardeninn.com CAROL WOOD October 5th, Friday Evening 7:00 - 8:00 PM FREE LECTURE on CORSETRY October 6th and 20th, Saturdays 10:00 - 5:00 PM VICTORIAN CORSETRY (150.00) A two session class on VICTORIAN CORSETRY, a repeat of her very popular class on making a corset. October 27th, Saturday 10:30 - 5:30 PM EILENE CROSS TURKISH BEAD CROCHET NECKLACE ($65.00) Details on all classes and workshops is available on our web site at http://lacismuseum.org/classes
Lace Groups at LMLT
Participation is free and if attending, do bring some of your accomplishments, complete or incomplete, and find a community of friends. BOBBIN LACE GROUP This steadily growing group meets on the third Saturday of each month from 1 - 3. Hosted regularly by Beth Lysten all are welcome to learn, share and support this timeless art. If curiosity persists, we would encourage participation in the more formal bobbin lace classes offered at LMLT. All are welcome to participate. No charge or fee solicited. The group will next meet Saturday, October 20th from 1 - 3. Participation is free and if attending, do bring some of your accomplishments, complete or incomplete, and find a community of friends. TEXTILE CLINIC. LMLT offers a free clinic on the third Monday of each month from 2 - 4:00, offering guidance as to identification, restoration, conservation, repair, storage and value as related to lace, costume, rugs, quilts and virtually any other textile. Our own “Road Show,” bring and share what may or may not be those treasures. Next clinic will be October 17th. Details are available on our web site at http://lacismuseum.org/classes.html.
New Items
LA FRIVOLITE AUX NAVETTES, Edwige Renaudin (CA11). French text, but illustrations, diagrams, charts and step-by-step photos that need no translation. From simple exercises to complex patterns for jewelry, ornament, biorders and table centers, all charted. LA BRODERIE DE LUNEVILLE, Roland Gravelier and Mick Fouriscot (CA12). Tambour embroidery explored from basic techniques to working with beads and sequins through specific projects. Beautiful artwork defining the stitch techniques, specific projects exploring naterials and concepts. Hardcover. French text. ZAUBERHAFTE STRICKSPITZEN: Herbert Niebling (BV57). Twelve especially wanted and beautiful lace knitting table cloths designed by Herbert Niebling: Amethyst, Erdbeere, Flieder, Frühlingsreigen, Helene, Herzblume, Magnolie, Morgenrot, Otto, Petra, Sirius and Waldesruh. The edition offers pictures and knitting instructions of all including patterns, firstly published by Otto Beyer. PRACTICAL MAKING OF LEATHER GLOVES / NAHKINNASTE VALMISTAMINE, Evelyn Toomistu-Banani (UP66).A rA rich history of gloves and gauntlets, the manufacture of gloves and the details for making leather gloves with step-by-step photos and full size patterns. Text in Estonian and EnglishA rich history of gloves and gauntlets, the manufacture of gloves and the details for making leather gloves with step-by-step photos and full size patterns. Text in Estonian and Englishich history of gloves and gauntlets, the manufacture of gloves and the details for making leather gloves with step-by-step photos and full size patterns. Text in Estonian and English IRISH CROCHET LACE IN THE 19TH CENTURY, Barbara Ballantyne (KP89). New forms of Irish crochet studied as the bar was raised in developing this craft into a fine art. IRISH CROCHET LACE IN THE 19TH CENTURY, Barbara Ballentyne (KP88). A fascinating study of the art of Irish crichet as it developed from its primitive beginnings. 29 laces stdied in detail. PETITS CADEAUX EN DENTELLE, Marie-Jose Massol (CA13). The basics of bobbin lace through innovative projects including an alphabet by clear photos, diagrams and charts. CLUNY DE BRIOUDE, Mick Fouriscot and Odette Arpin (CA15). Introduction and exploration of Cluny lace through innovative contemporary designs. DENTELLE DE VALENCEINNES LES BASES, Sophie Houpeurt-Mollaret (CA16). The history and basics of Val bobbin lace through a series of doilies and borders. DENTELLE TORCHON DE CHOLET Vol. 2, Martine Piveteau and Mick Fouriscot (CA19) Wonderful adventures in Torchon bobbin lace, introducing the fond Mariage ground and its variations, spider crossings and gimp. Table linens, fan, and edgings. DENTELLE DE TULLE, Mick Fouriscot and Joelle Milord (CA20). All the elements of filet embroidery on square knotted net, from the making of the net, the darning stitches and specific two and three dimensional projets JOURS ANCIENS DE CILAOS, Mick Fouriscot and Suzanne Maillot (CA23). The details of "Mexican" drawnwork as interpreted in Cilaos, France. BRODERIE OR DE ROCHEFORT, Mick Fouriscot, Simone Chateau, Marie-Helene Cesar (UP13). Metallic thread and bullion embroidery with detailed stitch technique and projects. French text. BRODERIE MOUNTMELLICK, Pat Trott (CA22). The nuances of this whitework technique from knitted fringe borders to the rich stitch vocabulary by step-by-step photos. Many projects by full size patterns and stitch suggestions. DENTELLE DE MIRECOURT, Marie-Jose Massol (CA17). A regional straight French flat bobbin lace incorporating many crossings, unique grounds and occasional leaves. TATTING LACE ACCESSORIES [34011] (JL56). 23 simple yet clever practical projects, all well diagramed. SUPER-SCARY MOCHIMOCHI, Anna Hrachovec (WA39). 20 cute and creepy creatures that think they are terrifying plus the lots of room for innovation for knitters of all ages. BEAD EMBROIDERY, Yukiko Ogura (KD18). A wide variety of needle techniques in this classic richly illustrated guide. WOMEN'S WORK: EMBROIDERY IN COLONIAL BOSTON, Pamela A. Parmal (DP15). An extraordinary period of women's dedication to embroidery and their influence on society as seen through the domestic lives of six women . 75 FLORAL BLOCKS TO CROCHET, Betty Barnden (SN58). Written patterns, charts and photos for a wide range of flat and dimensional motifs, in triangular, square, hexagonal, diamond and round blocks for accessories, blankets and more. HAND COVER BUCKLES. (MX05..). A full range of sizes from 3/4" to 3" to facilitate the making of your own matching fabric covered buckles. DIVIDER / HAT PINS (WB03). Pearl head, sharp pointed pins, 3" x .036" for separating bobbin groups in lace making.
Closing Thoughts
Chaos has now bounced from the weather to the disdain from societies threatened by freedom. Reason has ceased to reign and the social systems that we relied on are on the precipice of extinction. Do we dare look at history and learn from the primitive impulses that we rose above or do we simply repeat again all the tragedies that we thought were only history. And here we go again. Let it be the Museums to, at the least, record the past. All are invited to view our new Gallery and perhaps take part in supporting our Museum, donating a few hours, taking some of our classes or just making another visit. Our exhibits are designed to elicit, capture and preserve memories. The task of the Museum is to not let us forget. Jules Kliot, Director	i
Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles 2982 Adeline Street Berkeley, CA 94703 http://lacismuseum.org/ at Ashby & Adeline St., adjacent to the "Ashby" BART Station Hours: Monday thru Saturday 12:00 - 6:00 pm tel: 510-843-7290