The Lacis Museum Newsletter
   
May 17, 2012

A precious donation to the Museum this week is an extraordinary collection of early seventeenth century Genoese bobbin laces by Mary Jane Leland of Los Angeles. Found in a decaying box of family treasures dating back to the 1920s,  Mary Jane simply looking for a place where they would be appreciated. The earlier Genoese laces, mimicking the popular Punto in Aria needle designs in bobbin lace, evolved into these softer laces as dictated by changes in fashion. 





Absorbed in the book, "The Making of a Traditional Artist" by Nawal el Messiri who writes of her experiences in the village Gazeirit Shandaweel (not found on any map) where the art of tally has established deep roots. At LMLT we make reference to the Asuit cloth, but in this small village its emergence as the prime resource for creating these magical cloths is well documented to the extent that for this work to be authentic, it can only be made in and by its inhabitants. The symbols, an extension of those of ancient Egypt, all have significance with the the bridal tarha or shawl, the traditional product.  A lost art till the late 1990s, when a revival supported by local governments as well as UNICEF, made this art a vital part of the economy with over 1000 workers by 2009. Nawal refers to pure gold and silver threads of the old cloths to the new electroplated copper threads used today, most now coming from India. A fascinating discourse but omiting much of the old tally work of Asyut, most of which remains a mystery.

This weekend the big event for weavers takes place at Oakland Convention Center where the Conference of Northern California Handweavers takes place. Classes, fashions and a great Market Place. Discount tickets available at LMLT.  CNCH.org

This is also the weekend for Maker-Faire, the much awaited annual event supporting all aspects of handwork.  makerfaire.com

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES. If there is interest in working at the Museum or at the Warehouse please direct inquiries to Erin at 510-843-7290.

On Wednesday, May 23rd, between 2 - 4.00, Eileeen Cross will be hosting a special free Clinic on non-lace textiles. Bring in your knitting, crochet, needlepoint, cross stitch, embroidery, beading, quilts and all the other textile items that you wonder about.

 Kim Davis has helped identify the unusual Needle Lace that was illustrated in the April 5th Newsletter. A Greek needle lace known as bibila it of the same technique used in the popular oyas, the fringes on the traditional shawls.


SECOND FLOOR GALLERY

The response to the new Gallery has been overwhelming, the challenge of the stair quickly forgotten. with all visitors expressing their gratitude. The rewards from the tours are shared by the visitors and myself, always learning more from the experience


Rather than a dated exhibit, displayed items will be constantly changing, guided by the support received from Friends for this endeavor.  In addition to the LMLT Collection,  rotating exhibits of textile collectors as well as contemporary textile artists and crafts persons could have exposure.

All comments, encouragement and support are welcomed. I can be contacted at jules@LacisMuseum.org

SPRING COSTUME EXHIBIT
THAT HAT!
April 7th thru August 4th

More than a catalog display of  hats, this Exhibit lets the hats tell a story of who they are and who they were. Accompanied by the wax, true life mannequin figures of Ellen Thomsen, the contemporary costumes from the LMLT collection and the paraphernalia and cases that made homes for these hats, this is sure to me a memorable experience. 

Erin Algeo, Curator of the Exhibit writes:

"That Hat! is an exhibition of antique and vintage hats, including a selection of caps, hoods and bonnets, assembled in celebration of the allure of the fashionable hat. Despite the ensuing decades, historical fashions, from the demure lace-edged caps of the 1830s, to the seductive top hats of the 1910s, still command attention. Even examples from the recent past can electrify imaginations, such as the miniature novelty hats of the 1940s or the veiled whimseys of the 1950s. In the past, the hat held a significant position in everyday life. Many people did not leave the house without one. The fashionable hat was not just fashion. No matter the current trends, a hat conveyed important clues about the person wearing it. At a glance, the status, the circumstance, and the affiliations of the wearer could clearly be seen. There was a language in hat wearing that enabled the wearer to telegraph such important conditions as martial status, bereavement or, more obscurely, if one was in a group, the fact that one was waiting to speak.

That Hat! includes examples of once fashionable hats made from materials of all kinds, including straw, felt, fabric, fur, net and wire. The hats host a never-ending parade of embellishments that never ceases to amaze. Feathers, artificial leaves and flowers, lace, ribbons, beads, and veils of all descriptions, are just a few of the decorations that grace the hats of bygone eras. Character and individual taste in fashion did not take a backseat to custom. Although hat wearing was once an everyday convention, fashionable hats were in no way confined to conventionality in design. Surreal, coy, flirtatious, even humorous elements reside in the shape and ornamentation of many period hats which only increases their charm. The hat, was and still is, a canvas for style, beauty and creativity of all kinds."

Bonnets are the epitome of headwear for women in the nineteenth century.  The fashion for bonnets emerges in the eighteenth century but dominated fashionable headwear for women in the nineteenth century. Bonnets were made from many different materials. Felt, straw, fabric of all varieties were common in bonnet-making but were in no way the only materials employed. Trimmings for bonnets remained as various as those for hats, leaving only the imagination of the maker as the limit. The fashionable bonnet changed as hairstyles and tastes altered, although, general elements remained the same. A bonnet covered the top of the head, and, during some trends, the sides and back of the head. Generally, bonnets tied under the chin, but could also cross under the chin to tie on top of the head.  Some bonnets had large brims that framed the face, like styles of the 1840s or had small brims that peaked on top of the head, like the popular styles of the 1880s. Sometimes the back edge of the bonnet had a curtain or flounce of fabric or lace called a bavolet. Although the 1880s saw the last period of widespread popularity of the bonnet, the bonnet did make its appearance in the twentieth century. Fashionable styles of bonnets appeared in the 1920s and were popular in the 1940s.

\A SLIDE SHOW of many of the pieces in the exhibit is now available on the LMLT web site in a new interactive format, allowing scanning and selection of  any image in addition to the normal sequencing.  
        THAT HAT! : Slide Show

SFO MUSEUM, SAN FRANCISCO AIRPORT
     
The top rated Airport Museum in the Nation, with Galleries in the various concourses, an Exhibit is scheduled to open on March 1st on sewing, both hand and machine, which has created, influenced and liberated the home sewer.

The items on loan from LMLT were professionally loved, packed, and pickup for their new view of the world. If coming or going through SFO plan on some extra time to visit this exhibit.

Barbara Shapiro (Board Member of TSA) writes: "...I had the pleasure of strolling through the exhibit at SFO. What a delight! I loved all the pieces that Lacis provided for this exhibit.I hope to see it again before it closes."
Nicole Mullen, curator, writes:
SFO Museum is currently curating an historical sewing exhibition with the assistance of the Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles. This exhibition will showcase a century of sewing machines from the 1850s to the 1950s, while exploring the revolutionary impact that this labor saving device had on homemakers and factory production. The display will also feature a variety of sewing notions such as chatelaines, crimpers, and pin cushions.Garment construction and fashion history throughout the decades will also be highlighted. The Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles in Berkeley, the Museum of American Heritage in Palo Alto, and the Lace Museum in Sunnyvale will loan objects for the display. This exhibition will be located beyond the security screening in Terminal 3, North Connect Gallery, San Francisco International Airport.  It will be on view to ticketed passengers only from March 1, 2012 to August 2012. For more information: www.sfomuseum.org. 

For those not taking a flight, Nicole writes: " ...they can contact SFO Museum about making arrangements without an airline ticket. We will be creating an online exhibition, though it will not be entirely comprehensive. We will also have a press release with press images available online. Generally, we discourage visitors from taking photographs, but of course if members of your group come and want to take some photos while they are viewing the exhibition it shouldn't be a problem."  Contact can be made by Telephone: 650.821.6700,  Facsimile: 650.821.6777, or  e-mail: curator@flysfo.com.

The LMLT Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/LacisMuseum) is gathering friends, thanks to Erin and we ask our friends to keep us informed of events you would like to share.  Please pass on any comments to facebook@LacisMuseum.org, The Newsletter will now be featured on our Facebook.