This is a two-Saturday class, 9/19 and 9/26, 10 AM to 5 PM
Do you look at images of Victorian ladies and wish you could dress just like them? Now you can! Come make a late-Victorian bodice from 1830-1899. You can wear it to Victorian balls, teas, SASS events, or any occasion you desire. You can even use it as a base for a modern or fantasy gown!
We’ll start with a Truly Victorian bodice pattern of your choosing, and augment it with authentic 19th century dressmaking techniques to make a custom gown just for you. We’ll cover measurements, pattern adjustments, fitting, period sewing techniques, trimming, boning, hand finishing, and much more.
In the first session, you will cover a brief overview of the styles worn in the era. You will take measurements, trace off the correct pattern pieces, and then make and fit mock-ups.
In the second session, you will then move on to cutting and constructing your bodice and adding boning. We’ll finish out by concentrating on closures and facings.
Prerequisites: Students must have made at least one dress or blouse from a pattern and know how to use a sewing machine.
SUPPLY LIST:THE PATTERN:
A Truly Victorian bodice pattern from the Victorian era (1840 – 1890s) These patterns have been carefully chosen because they have similar pattern pieces and come from reputable companies. Please do not substitute another pattern.
Truly Victorian bodice pattern of your choice from the following list:
TV 440: 1859 Pagoda Bodice
TV 442: 1860s Ballgown Bodice
TV 443: 1861 Dress Bodice
TV 446: 1860s Darted Bodice
TV 447: 1863 Sheer Dress
TV 449: 1861 Revere Bodice
TV 453: 1861 Raphael Evening Dress
TV 455: 1830s Romantic Day Dress
TV456: 1856 Gathered Dress
TV 400: 1871 Day Bodice
TV 405: 1872 Vest Basque
TV 454: 1844 German Day Dresses
TV 402: 1872 Carriage Bodice
TV 402: 1872 Carriage Bodice
TV 403: 1872 Vested Bodice
TV 404: 1870 Senora Bodice
TV 405: 1872 Vest Basque
TV 416: 1875 Ball Gown Basque
TV 420: 1879 Cuirass Bodice
TV 422: 1881 Dinner Bodice
TV 423: 1877 Two-Tone Bodice
TV 428: 1880 Jacket Bodice
TV 460: 1885 Cuirass Bodice
TV 462: 1883 Tail Bodice
TV 463: 1884 French Vest Bodice
TV 464: 1883 Riding Habit Bodice
TV 466: 1887 Alexandra Bodice
TV 490: 1892 Ball Gown Bodice
TV 493: 1896 Plain Bodice
TV 496: 1896 Ripple Jacket
THE FABRIC: (Some of which are available from Lacis)
- Fabric, as listed on your pattern. Remember to buy enough to make matching skirts if you want them.
- Lining: NOT modern slippery lining fabrics! 100% cotton sateen, lightweight twill, polished cotton or broadcloth. Same yardage as bodice.
- Muslin (or old sheets, etc) for a mockup: 2 yards or more
- Preparation: Please prepare all fabrics by washing or steaming, if necessary. However, do not wash your muslin. Press all fabrics. Tape together print-at-home patterns if needed. Read pattern instructions.
WHAT TO WEAR:
Please bring the underpinnings that you plan on wearing with bodice. Historically accurate undergarments are a well-fitted corset, chemise, petticoats, and hoop, bum pad, or bustle, if you will be wearing one is highly recommended. Petticoats, hoops, and bustle/pad affect the fit of your bodice, so please bring them if you will be wearing them. It is perfectly fine not to wear historical undergarments, but you must have all the undergarments you plan to wear at the first class and every class thereafter. Switching the undergarments will undo all your careful fitting work.
Wearing modern undergarments instead is absolutely fine; just be aware that a skirt made to wear with a corset will not fit properly, or at all, without one, and vice versa. So please make a decision and commit to it. Showing up at the second class session with a beautiful new corset will undo most of your previous fitting work.
MATERIALS: (Some of which are available from Lacis)
- Bone casing: 6 yards. You can use seam binding, Prussian tape, ribbon, bias tape, lining fabric, etc.
- Boning: five yards artificial whalebone, or you can purchase metal boning at Lacis during class
- Thread to match all fabrics
- Closures as listed in pattern: buttons, hooks/eyes, hook and eye tape, or eyelets for lacing
- 2 yards ¾” – 1” petersham ribbon
- Large hook and eye to fit petersham (or two dress size hooks and eyes)
- Any desired trimming
- Optional: 12 yards seam binding for Hong-Kong style seam finish
TOOLS REQUIRED:
- Sewing machine, with power cord and foot pedal, plus bobbins and extra needles. Optional piping, zipper, shirring and gathering attachments if needed.
- Ruler (clear if possible)
- Fabric marking device /carbon paper and tracing wheel
- Dressmaking pins
- Pencil/pen
- Measuring tape
- Scissors: fabric, paper, thread snips, and craft scissors if using German plastic boning.
- Hand sewing needles, plus beeswax, and thimble, if desired
- Chalk, or fabric marking pen that shows on your lining fabric.
- Any other tools you find helpful: seam ripper, highlighter, French curve, etc.
- Optional but strongly recommended: tracing paper for pattern pieces.
- Optional: Dressmaker’s carbon paper and tracing wheel
- Optional: Pleating board or tools
Optional: Serger/overlocker
