The Lacis Museum Newsletter
April 24, 2009

Dear Friends of LMLT,

Here in the Bay Area we have had a full year’s worth of weather in the past week, with a lovely springtime weekend yielding to hot sunshine at the beginning of the week, only to be followed by blustery fog this morning, with predictions of rain by the weekend.


Exhibits
“As the Century Turns,” our exhibit featuring scenes from daily life during the Belle Epoque, invites viewers to step into the world of the Gay ‘90’s. Emphasizing period clothes along with the lace and linens familiar to people living at the turn of the last century, this exhibit is presented as a series of tableaux. The feel of the different tableaux is lifelike and homey, with the pieces displayed not as artifacts but like pieces from a home. Adding a breath of simulated life are the period wax headed articulated mannequins graciously loaned by Ellen Thompson, a longtime friend of Lacis, a member of the LMLT Board of Directors, doll maker and proprietor of Making Memories Doll Patterns. These lovingly restored mannequins impart lifelike movement to the tableaux and a bit of glamor from the age itself.

The exhibit will be available during regular museum hours, from noon to 6 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays, until August 1, 2009. We are always happy to welcome groups, so let us know if you'd like to bring your class or group for a special tour. Please call Erin at the museum shop, (510) 843-7290 to make arrangements.

 
A Special Bobbin Lace Event

This fall, LMLT will present a major exhibit on bobbin lace, perhaps the most readily recognized of all forms of lace making. Bobbin lace (sometimes called “pillow lace” in reference to the pillows on which it is worked) has been cherished by nobles and commoners since its inception in the 16th century. To provide background and understanding prior to this exhibit, on Saturday May 16th, from 1:00 to 4:00 PM, we will offer a FREE hands-on demonstration of this lovely lace. Live demonstrations and an exhibit featuring examples of the different types of bobbin lace will invite visitors to discover the magic of the extraordinary and mysterious lace making technique that tames multitudes of free threads into beautiful designs.

Come join us and learn about bobbin lace, try your hand with the bobbins, or simply watch and enjoy. Children from age 8, accompanied by an adult, are welcome. Maria Jose Munoz, our charming and talented bobbin lace teacher, who will be your guide into this magical world.

 
Classes
CUSTOMIZE A VICTORIAN GOWN: Taking Your Design from Concept to Execution with Carol Wood, April 25, May 16 and 23
Need a gown for Dickens Faire, Gaskell Balls, or a wedding?  Bring in a sketch or photo of the Victorian gown of your dreams and construct it under the guidance of a trained costumer. In this 3-session class, you will customize a gown from the Victorian era of your choosing from the widest of hoops to the tallest of bustles. Upon consultation with the instructor, you will decide which patterns to use, how to alter them to fit, what fabrics will work best, and the necessary undergarments. In order to make good progress, you should already have at least a corset of your chosen era that fits you and it is beneficial, although not necessary, to have all other underpinnings finished before class begins (such as hoop/bustle, bum pads, chemise, etc.). The instructor will help you to custom fit your mocked up bodice to achieve the best fit. We will then work out hemming a skirt over many under-constructions as well as costuming short-cuts for things like alterations, hidden pockets, moving in a hoop or bustle (how to use the “loo” in a hoop!) etc. You can expect to either finish your gown completely or be well on the way, depending on your skill level and how much time you devote to your project outside of class.

HOW TO MAKE AND DECORATE BUSTLE ERA AND LATE VICTORIAN STRAW HATS with Lynn McMasters, June 13 and 20
In the first session students will learn how to sew straw plait (braid) together on a sewing machine to make one of 5 slightly different hats. At the end of this session Lynn will help students come up with a design and materials list for finishing up their hats.

In the second session she will teach the different techniques needed to decorate their hats, covering such things as adding silk flowers over a large area of the hat without adding glue to the hat, dealing with feathers (how to join and curl them and how to add them to your hat), how to use netting on hats to add fill, and how to use fine wire to make ribbon loops.

Details on all classes and registration information are available on our website at http://lacismuseum.org/classes.html. Registration forms are also available at the Museum shop.


 
Lace Groups at LMLT
LACIS LACE KNITTING GROUP
Lace knitters of all skill levels are invited to join the Lacis Lace Knitters, a flourishing and friendly knitting family that meets once a month to share, show-and-tell, occasionally commiserate, congratulate, and always encourage each other through knitting thicks and thins. Bring along a current project and join us the first Saturday of every month from 1 to 3. In view of the large attendance the group now draws, the group will be meeting in the second floor exhibit space, so there will be ample room for everyone, along with all the show-and-tell projects.

BOBBIN LACE GROUP
Our bobbin lace classes with the charming and talented Maria Jose Munoz have produced lots of new bobbin lacers who are clamoring for lace-making camaraderie, and so Maria and the bobbin lacers now gather at the museum on the third Saturday of every month from 1 to 3 to share tips and work on lovely pillow lace of every description. Bring along your bobbins and join in the fun! (And be sure to check out the new Ravelry group for Bobbin Lace Lovers. If you’re not yet a Raveller, you’re missing out on one of the best things to happen to the fiber arts since the spindle! Check it out at www.ravelry.com and join in the fun today.)

Details on all groups are available on our website at http://lacismuseum.org/classes.html.


New in the Shop
Three wonderful new books are sure to appeal to fashion and costume enthusiasts.

The second edition of FASHION IN COSTUME: 1200-2000, by Joan Nunn, traces the evolution of fashion since the early middle ages, with special attention to the interplay of clothing and social status and roles. Copious and detailed black and white drawings are accompanied by extensive commentary pointing out the fine details that distinguish each costume and move fashion from one period to the next. Two new chapters cover the last two decades of the twentieth century, and focus on the role of the press and fashion photographers in the creation of fashion trends.

Jumping back in time, SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL by Avril Hart and Susan North is a splendid soft cover re-edition of FASHION IN DETAIL FROM THE 17th and 18th CENTURIES, a close look at items from the V and A’s collection of clothing that illuminates the decorative seaming, drapery, embellishments, and accessories that made garments from these two centuries such a delight. A companion volume, NINETEENTH CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL, by Lucy Johnston, offers a survey of costume and accessories from the nineteenth century, taking the story from the delicately draped muslin of neoclassical gowns to the opulently upholstered bustles of the late Victorian age.
In both volumes, full color photographs are supplemented by line drawings of both complete garments and details make this a great resource for designers, collectors, and lovers of beautiful sewing and fashion, and these new editions make these timeless resources affordable even on a fashion student’s restricted budget.

Another new offering, FLOWERS, DRAGONS, & PINE TREES, by Mary M. Dusenberry, takes the reader on a tour of Asia via textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art at the University of Kansas. Exquisite textile pieces from Iran, South Asia, China and Japan are shown in full color photographs, and explained and explored in essays that discuss their social and historical context as well as the details of symbolism and technique, making this survey a fascinating introduction to a world of intricate beauty.

Just this week, when we had despaired of seeing them again, came reprints of two more classic fiber resources that will be greeted with joy by lovers of textiles and fabrics.

THE BAYEUX TAPESTRY, by Wolfgang Grape, offers a detailed and thoroughly researched study of the world’s most famous piece of embroidery. The “tapestry” (actually a linen cloth embroidered in wool) tells the story of the victory of William, Duke of Normandy and his half brother Bishop Odo of Bayeaux over the English king, Harold of Wessex at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, an event that forever changed the course of English history and culture. This wonderful book combines meticulous research into the origins and meaning of the tapestry with detailed full color photographs of the entire cloth, with translation of the inscriptions, making it the ultimate reference on this extraordinary work of textile art.

Finally, we welcome a reprint of an indispensable resource for anyone who works with fabrics and textiles, THE PRIMARY STRUCTURES OF FABRICS: AN ILLUSTRATED CLASSIFICATION, by Irene Emery. Originally published in 1966, this volume offers a comprehensive system of terminology, based on a survey of a wide range of handmade and machine-made fabrics from around the world. Detailed photos of the various fibers and weaves accompany a study of the raw materials and components of fabrics, the structures of various fabrics, and the structures of accessories to fabric, such as stitches and appliqué. A listing of sources of information and a comprehensive index render this fascinating study a user-friendly resource for classifying and understanding textiles from any age or culture.

Closing Thoughts
Best wishes for a lovely spring weekend to all our readers!

Mary Frances and your friends at LMLT



Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles
2982 Adeline Street
Berkeley, CA  94703

http://lacismuseum.org/

at Ashby & Adeline St., adjacent to the "Ashby" BART Station
Hours: Monday thru Saturday 12:00 - 6:00 pm
tel: 510-843-7290