LMLT NewsLetter

The Lacis Museum Newsletter
March 14, 2009

Dear Friends of LMLT,

After a somewhat hectic beginning to the year, things her eat the museum are returning to a more manageable pace. As usual, we are busy with a number of projects, and we want to share some of the excitement with you.

Exhibits

At the top of the project list is our next exhibit, “As the Century Turns: The World of the 1890’s.” This exhibit is set in the world of the 1890’s as it hurtles headlong into the 20th century and just beyond. In order to emphasize not only period clothes but also the lace and linens familiar to people living at the turn of the last century, this exhibit is presented as a series of tableaux. To view this exhibit is a bit like looking through a keyhole 100 years ago and seeing a slice of daily life that includes not only shirt waists, petticoats, and drawers, but also tablecloths, curtains, and doilies. The feel of the different tableaux is lifelike and homey, with the pieces displayed not as artifacts but like pieces from a home. Adding a breath of simulated life are the period wax headed articulated mannequins graciously loaned by Ellen Thompson, a longtime friend of Lacis, a member of the LMLT Board of Directors, doll maker and proprietor of Making Memories Doll Patterns. These lovingly restored mannequins impart lifelike movement to the tableaux and a bit of glamour from the age itself.

This lovely and lively exhibit will open with a reception on Friday, April 3, from 6 to 9 p.m., and we look forward to greeting you and introducing you to this, our latest exhibit of precious textiles, laces, and textile tools from the past.

The exhibit will be available during regular museum hours, from noon to 6 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays, from April 4 to August 1, 2009. We are always happy to welcome groups, so let us know if you'd like to bring your class or group for a special tour. Please call Erin at the museum shop, (510) 843-7290 to make arrangements.

Classes

MAKING A VICTORIAN CORSET with Carol Wood, April 4 and 18
Carol Wood, an accomplished costumer, will teach you the art and engineering of the Victorian corset, and guide you in making one of your own. Starting with the pattern for “Ladies’ Victorian Underwear” (#100) by Laughing Moon Mercantile, you’ll alter the pattern to make a muslin mock-up fitted to your exact measurements, then you’ll use your adjusted muslin mock-up to make a single- or double-layer corset in coutil, with the option of covering it in your choice of fashion fabric. Depending on your sewing ability and choice of fabrics, it is possible to complete your corset if you work on your project both Saturdays as well as the week between. You’ll also receive a huge list of corsetry and reenactment suppliers, bibliography, and demo handouts.

CUSTOMIZE A VICTORIAN GOWN: Taking Your Design from Concept to Execution with Carol Wood, April 25, May 16 and 23
Need a gown for Dickens Faire, Gaskell Balls, or a wedding? Bring in a sketch or photo of the Victorian gown of your dreams and construct it under the guidance of a trained costumer. In this 3-session class, you will customize a gown from the Victorian era of your choosing from the widest of hoops to the tallest of bustles. Upon consultation with the instructor, you will decide which patterns to use, how to alter them to fit, what fabrics will work best, and the necessary undergarments. In order to make good progress, you should already have at least a corset of your chosen era that fits you and it is beneficial, although not necessary, to have all other underpinnings finished before class begins (such as hoop/bustle, bum pads, chemise, etc.). The instructor will help you to custom fit your mocked up bodice to achieve the best fit. We will then work out hemming a skirt over many under-constructions as well as costuming short-cuts for things like alterations, hidden pockets, moving in a hoop or bustle (how to use the “loo” in a hoop!) etc. You can expect to either finish your gown completely or be well on the way, depending on your skill level and how much time you devote to your project outside of class.

BOBBIN LACE IN FINE WIRE with Kim Davis, April 11 and 18
This class is for wire lace beginners as well as advanced students. Basic bobbin lace skills are necessary. Students new to wire lace will begin with plaiting in wire and progress to more difficult techniques. Intermediate students will learn basic groundwork, sewings, adding beads, and use of gimps and metal ribbon for special effects. Advanced students will work a guipure pattern with leaves, plaits and cloth stitch to produce a brooch or pendant.

Wire bobbins will be available in class for students to borrow upon request. A class kit will be supplied in class with wire and other necessary tools. This two-day class will include discussion and handout about choosing appropriate bobbins, tools, and wire for projects.

STRAW HAT MAKING with Jacqueline Palacios, April 4 and 11
Make your own spring hat with a light weight parasisal straw hood in time for Easter! We will block the hat the first day and decorate the second day of the class, so bring any decorative trimmings, such as feathers, ribbons, flowers, etc! The sky is the limit!

Details on all classes and registration information are available on our website at http://lacismuseum.org/classes.html. Registration forms are also available at the Museum shop.

Lace Groups at LMLT

LACIS LACE KNITTING GROUP
Lace knitters of all skill levels are invited to join the Lacis Lace Knitters, a flourishing and friendly knitting family that meets once a month to share, show-and-tell, occasionally commiserate, congratulate, and always encourage each other through knitting thicks and thins. Bring along a current project and join us the first Saturday of every month from 1 to 3 in the museum shop. In view of the large attendance the group now draws, the group will now be meeting in the second floor exhibit space, so there will be ample room for everyone, along with all the show-and-tell projects.

BOBBIN LACE GROUP
Our bobbin lace classes with the charming and talented Maria Jose Munoz have produced lots of new bobbin lacers who are clamoring for lace-making camaraderie, and so Maria and the bobbin lacers now gather at the museum on the third Saturday of every month from 1 to 3 to share tips and work on lovely pillow lace of every description. Bring along your bobbins and join in the fun, or just come by and watch the magic happen.

Details on all groups are available on our website at http://lacismuseum.org/classes.html.

New in the Shop

Wonderful new books have arrived from Japan, deserving of some commentary.

First is the ultimate Lacis book: a compendium of lace-making techniques from various Ondori publications, titled simply LACE, that includes crochet, tatting, bobbin lace, teneriffe, netting and filet lace, knitted lace, hairpin lace, macramé, and tape lace. Clear illustrations provide a wonderful introduction to each technique, and the accompanying patterns offer the perfect small projects for a beginner to try out new skills. Especially nice is a bonus section at the end on using small beaded doilies to make framed purses and bags.

TATTING & BEADS GRACEFUL JEWELRY shows how to combine tatting and various beadwork techniques, using a range of different threads and beads, to produce pretty, sparkly necklaces, bracelets, earrings.

Five volumes from the Asahi Originals series focus on crochet, each offering 100 patterns based on a specific theme.
MINI MOTIF CROCHET PATTERN gives patterns for flowers, snowflakes, and other tiny things that can be used as embellishments on clothing, jewelry, and home dec items.
LACEWORK FOUR SEASONS has patterns for small motifs that reflect the changing seasons. Use these patterns for single small doilies, stitch them in a row for borders on linens or clothing, or combine them for handbags, clothing, tablecloths, or bedspreads.
LACEWORK FLOWER MOTIF blooms with flowers, flowers, flowers: single blossoms, nosegays, and garlands to meet every need.
LACEWORK PETIT MOTIF has a bit of everything. Nature inspires flowers, vegetables and fruits, fish, birds, and animals, while culture contributes holiday motifs, wee shoes, hats, handbags, mittens, an itsy bitsy teeny weeny bikini, holiday symbols, toys, a tiny tea set, even the cakes and goodies to serve with it.
LACEWORK FOUR SEASONS (yes, a different book with the same title) includes a library of edgings from simple to elaborate, whimsical to classical, for every use your imagination can dream up.
In the same series, EMBROIDERY: ONE POINT STITCH offers charming motifs, edgings, and alphabets worked in simple stitches so you can add a handmade touch to anything you like.

Two new temari books have come our way, both of which move this beautiful art in new directions.
In TEMARI GIFTS: Japanese Thread Balls and Jewelry, Diana Vandervoort shares her knowledge of this ancient Japanese art in clear English instructions and illustrations, and demonstrates the versatility of the traditional techniques with beautiful designs for jewelry.
TEMARI by Yoko Takahara is a Japanese publication that begins with the classical balls, then uses the same techniques to fashion wonderful cuff bracelets and rings.

Finally, in JAPANESE REVERSIBLE PATCHWORK, Sachiyo Muraki uses the traditional “cathedral windows” quilt technique to fashion quilts, hangings, and handbags, interpreting the designs in exquisite combinations of colors and fabrics. This is a book that will send any quilter scurrying to her scrapbag to experiment.

Now that THE KNITTED LACE DESIGNS OF HERBERT NIEBLING (original German title GESTRICKTE SPITZENDECKEN) has moved on to the printers, I have been able to finish a translation of the symbols from the recently republished OMAS STRICKGEHEIMNISSE from the same publisher. The lovely old German openwork and cabled patterns in this book appear to be the forerunners for both Aran knitting and subsequent German “art knitting,” with complex manipulations of simple knit and purl stitches that are mind-boggling in their ingenuity. Many hours spent translating and test knitting these patterns has inspired me with renewed respect for the knitters in whose steps we tread. Our new translation is sure to help English-speaking knitters reap the full benefits of their wonderful work.

Further knitting news includes the forthcoming appearance of three volumes of lace knitting patterns, two of them with patterns by Herbert Niebling and the third with patterns by Marie Niedner and Mitzi Donner. These books will be coming from Verlag fuer die Frau in April, and can be pre-ordered now.

A most interesting new product developed by Lacis is the new pattern layout magnetic sheet. Using a non-magnetic, light weight, roll-up material that will attract a magnet, this sheet is designed for the layout of patterns for cutting or tracing without the necessity of heavy weights. It can also replace the heavy metal panels used as magnetic boards for cross stitch, knitting and other charted patterns.

Closing Thoughts

I will be away next week, but send all of you best wishes for a happy beginning of spring!

Mary Frances and your friends at LMLT

Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles
2982 Adeline Street
Berkeley, CA 94703

http://lacismuseum.org/

at Ashby & Adeline St., adjacent to the "Ashby" BART Station
Hours: Monday thru Saturday 12:00 - 6:00 pm
tel: 510-843-7290